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Miyagawa-cho Kyoodori Apr 1 2019




Kata as convenient shortcuts to Japanese traditional performance culture


The highly-codified dance forms, Kata, found throughout Japanese traditional dance and theatre, and even some modern theatre, are shortcuts. They are highly refined and defined, capable of infinite varieties of combinations, at a wide range of levels of energies and paces. They are pre-fabricated material ready to be enlisted to quickly and beautiful put up new creations, lego blocks of beauty and power. This was evident in the annual dances of teenage maiko and middle-age geisha in the Miyagawa-cho Kyo odori held April first in rainy, sakura-strewn Kyoto.
The small strip of teahouses just east of the Kawabata Avenue south of Shijo in Kyoto is home to the Miyagawa-cho, one of the “Five Geisha Districts” that includes its more famous neighbor Gion. http://miyako-odori.jp/english/ The Miyako Odori is a pillar of Kyoto’s spring tourist season, held at their own 600-seat theatre, although this year at the 1200-seat Minami-za theatre on main tourist street of Shijo in Gion for nearly four weeks. The smaller Miyagawa Kaburenjo Theatre, tucked behind a side-street, has a small ticket booth, requiring one to stoop to talk to the aged ticket-takers, for tickets sold only five days in advance, for only 2 weeks There were three shows a day--1230, 230, and 430, with audiences efficiently herded through tea with maikosan, the show, and souvenir alley.
The maikosan, some still teenagers, looked almost frightened at the first day of their first event. Whitened necks and faces, kimonos with long-sleeves and trailing obis, and heads dressed in firm, stacked buns of rich, dark hair, decorated with blue and red ribbons, combs and pins, they resembled nothing but dolls. Eventually I could differentiate among the various dancers, some of whom had the knowing smile of a confidence, others the blank look of someone carefully following the teachings/her fellow performers. They were all blank, pure, performing the same simple sweeps and turns, and fan twirls and sweeping movements, showing off their childish energy and sincerity. This was not the slow, zashikimai of Kyomai austere Inoue School of the Gion geisha district, but Wakayagi, drawing from more popular folk and kabuki roots.
I drifted in and out of the show to think about the ease of creative invention possible within a tradition whose building blocks are kata. One need not start from scratch, deciding where Hamlet enters or how Desdemona is dressed. There is no need to think about a new movement style, or character type, or gesture-there were so many named and traceable historical ones, one needed only to pull them from storage or existing pieces. By piecing them together, adding new lyrics and similar plots, a few new props and costumes, and the creative new work could be performed. This year, “A Japanese doll in wonderland” was the theme. Each of four recognizable dolls (to connoisseurs) came to life in turn—Matsukaze, Fuji Musume, Dojoji, etc…--a living expression of the painted picture behind her. The formal, stuttering, and slow movements of the “doll” were on a continuum with the living actors’ movements. The simple movements of playing with a ball, fighting with stylized thrusts and sweeps, and searching were accomplished easily. My favorite part was when four dancers pulled black hand-towels, folded like napkins from under their necks, suddenly unfurled and pieced together to simulate the dancing outlines of a giant cat, and then emerged: a giant custard yellow-and-black kimonoed “Catspirit” who fought with charming paws and leaps with the Servant and Doll for the lost ball.
            The second part of the 60-minute show—and this two-part structure seems common to many traditional dances, formal and informal, new and traditional, newcomers and veterans—was an ode to the new era, Reiwa, announced just hours before. In front of the Imperial Palace, geisha in formal black kimono and maiko in their doll-like pastel and crimson hues danced rhythmic, group, fan-swirling dances against a backdrop of the Imperial Palace. The young maiko were placed in groups of 4 or 8 in the back rows, more experienced maiko and geiko were in the front. Who could not enjoy the spectacle of thirty beautiful girls and women in gorgeous kimono, with confident, powerful and shy looks on their faces, slicing the air with their fans, stamping in synch, and smiling throughout as they weaved in and out of each other in groups. Some threw a few towels with their crests into the audience. The shamisen and singers, unfortunately singing through microphones, and offstage drums and gongs lent to the gaiety. It was vigorous, joyful, felicitous and very pretty spectacle that ended the show on a high note. Milling spectators snapped up the calendars, towels, CDs, and illustrated pamphlets available in the lobby, waiting around to pay aisatsu greetings to favorite performers.
If you were to create a “search for the lost object” fantasy from scratch, there would be so many things to decide. But Japanese katafication, the codification of forms, means that all aspects are pre-fabricated. One need only instruct skilled dancers to pull from their A to Z of kata learned throughout their lifetimes, put A, D, and M in a certain order, tie them together with original transitions and a few unique elements and voila! One can create a completely “original” musical show of high quality, capable of learning by those with only basic skills repeated in new contexts, and interpreted by the star roles in new ways. By such cobbling and dressing in pretty and silly and striking apparel, Miyagawa odori kept its fascination over the years.

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